Passing Through Ubud, Gazing at Batur Volcano, and Visiting the Legendary Besakih Temple

My 7-day journey exploring Indonesia’s Java strip has wrapped up—pretty much a smashing success. The plan was tight but executed near-perfectly: Day 1 in Jakarta, Day 2 in Bandung, Day 3 in Yogyakarta, Days 4 and 5 at Bromo Mountain, and Days 6 and 7 in Bali. Today’s the last day. I had to whip up a Bali itinerary to squeeze in some exploring before my 10 p.m. flight back to Kuala Lumpur. After long stints working on Thailand’s islands, I’m over beaches—skipping Kuta Beach in the city. Today’s adventure, on a motorbike borrowed from my friend’s family, is: cruising through Ubud, checking out Batur Volcano, swinging by the legendary Besakih Temple, and looping back to the city center. That’s 85 miles (137km) of hilly roads—not exactly safe, but totally worth the ride.

Spend More Time in Ubud Over Kuta Beach

If you’ve got time in Bali, head to Ubud.

Even just passing through Ubud is enough.

So yeah, I only zipped through Ubud, but it’s a gorgeous stretch packed with resorts and fresh nature. Nestled among Bali’s rugged forests and hills, Ubud feels like one giant resort housing smaller ones. You’re breathing crisp, green air laced with the scent of local trees.

Ubud’s for dreamers who dig slow, peaceful vibes. If you’re expecting big exploration, there’s not much—temples, a zoo, terraced rice fields, palm trees… that’s it. Mornings, you wake up and breathe. Noon, eat and breathe. Night, just breathe. Soak it in—Ubud’s best treasure, like I said, is the air.

I didn’t have time to crash at a homestay and nap, or dish out all the details on Ubud’s offerings. Truth is, it’s pretty basic—nothing wild—but if you can, stay a while.

Batur Volcano in Bali

They say Batur Volcano’s sleeping now—still active but no eruptions lately. No one’s betting any Indonesian volcano won’t wake up again, though. From Ubud to Batur, it’s not far—about 19 miles (30km) linking Ubud town in central Bali to Kintamani, a small spot pulling tons of tourists for two big draws: the volcano and Batur Lake. The hilly, twisty terrain slows you down, though, and Ubud’s beauty hooks you so hard you won’t wanna rush off.

The coolest thing is climbing Batur’s peak—over 5,577 feet (1,700m) above sea level—but I didn’t have time for that. So, I admired it from afar, where eateries and cafes line up with prime views of the volcano and lake, luring visitors to grab a bite. Picking a random roadside spot to pull over’s easy. Like I’ve said, Indonesian tourism’s still a bit chaotic, so keep an eye on prices and services here.

Next to Batur Volcano is Batur Lake—Bali’s biggest—blending into a vast, soul-stirring rivers-and-mountains scene. I stopped, snapped a few pics, popped into a small restaurant for some Thai Pad Thai, then hit the road again for the Mother Temple, Pura Besakih.

Exploring Besakih Temple in Bali

The Mother Temple, Pura Besakih, is Bali’s oldest and largest, with over 1,200 years of history. That’s why I had to swing by and soak it in before leaving Bali. Besakih boasts 21 temples and heaps of smaller shrines on the southern slopes of Mount Agung, some over 100 years old. The mountain last erupted in 1963, lava flowing just meters from the temple. Balinese folks believe the gods shielded it from disaster.

You’ve gotta rent a sarong here to wrap around yourself—respect for the temple gods. Here’s the thing: Indonesian tourism’s messy, with plenty of ways to nickel-and-dime visitors. First, tickets—the booth’s weirdly far from the temple. Riding up on my bike, tons of folks flagged me to park and buy a ticket early, with vendors popping up everywhere. But at the gate? No one checked tickets??? Then, near the temple’s tall entrance, sarong hawkers loiter, pouncing on confused tourists to play “guide.” They claim you need a guide to enter—mandatory. No clue how much they charge, but I strutted past, hit the gate solo, and explored on my own. Another trick: tag along with a tour group—no one’s policing who’s with what guide.

Back to Besakih—its standout feature is the black palm-leaf bale roofs, weathered jet-black over centuries, popping against typical Hindu designs you’d see in India. It’s got a vibe I mentioned before—kinda Japanese. You can take in 360-degree views of Besakih’s angles and get inspired for your next trip.

After heading back from Pura Besakih, I rolled to my friend’s place, had dinner, and he drove me to the airport. Goodbye Bali, goodbye Indonesia. I’m off to Kuala Lumpur for a few days as a pit stop. The Java journey’s done, but the feels linger. As I write this, it’s been 2 years since I hit Indonesia—maybe finishing this tale will kick me into my next adventure.

Panorama of Besakih Temple