Most people think of Brunei as golden mosques, quiet streets and a very wealthy sultan. Few realise that more than half of this tiny country is covered by rainforest. On my latest visit I finally made it to Ulu Temburong National Park, often called the “Green Jewel of Brunei”, a protected area of untouched Borneo jungle that you can only reach by longboat. It was one of the most memorable days I have spent anywhere in Southeast Asia.
Getting to Temburong
Temburong is Brunei’s eastern district, and it is separated from the capital by a strip of Malaysian territory. For years the only practical way there was a speedboat from Bandar Seri Begawan through the mangroves, crossing Malaysian waters on the way. Today a long bridge across Brunei Bay connects the two parts of the country, so you can simply drive.
Visiting independently is not really practical, so almost everyone books a guided day tour from the capital. Ours picked us up from the hotel at 8 am in a twelve-seat minivan. The roads are smooth and modern, and with stops it took about two hours to reach the river.
A Stop at the Bangar Market
On the way we stopped in Bangar, the district’s only real town, to look around the small local market. It is calm and unhurried, with vegetables, honey and fruit laid out on plastic plates. A bunch of tiny sweet bananas cost just B$1 (≈ $0.80 USD), the perfect snack for later. One stall sold sticks of kayu langir, a “shampoo wood” that foams in water and is used locally for washing hair.
Bunches of small local bananas for sale at the market in Bangar, Temburong
Breakfast was served at the tour company’s riverside lodge: pulut panggang, sticky rice with a savoury filling wrapped in leaves and grilled, plus a plate of crispy fried bananas. Simple, but very tasty.
Pulut panggang, grilled sticky rice rolls wrapped in leaves, served for breakfast
The Longboat Ride Up the Temburong River
There is no road into the park, so the last stretch is by longboat, a long, narrow wooden boat with an outboard motor at the back. We put on life jackets and sat in single file, low to the water. Once the boatman opens the throttle, water sprays up on both sides and the jungle closes in from the riverbanks. It took roughly 40 minutes to an hour, depending on the current.
Sitting at the front of a blue longboat heading up the brown Temburong River into the jungle
Two tips from the ride: sit still, because every movement tilts the boat, and keep your phone in a dry bag. It was mid-September and it had rained hard the night before, so the river was fast and muddy brown. Our guide told us that the afternoon river activity would be cancelled for safety, which was a pity but completely understandable.
Climbing to the Canopy Walk
At the park headquarters our guide registered the group. Use the toilets here, as there are none on the trail. Then the climb begins.
716 Steps Through the Rainforest
The path to the canopy walk is almost entirely wooden stairs, 716 steps in total, with small posts marking your progress. The distance is short, but in the hot, wet air everyone was soaked with sweat within ten minutes. Halfway up you cross a swaying suspension bridge that only takes a few people at a time. Take water and go slowly; the forest around you, with giant trees, vines and bird calls, is reason enough to stop often.
A wooden trail post marking 716 steps on the path to the canopy walk
The Towers
At the top of the stairs stand the canopy walk towers, built from metal scaffolding and rising more than 40 metres above the forest floor. Only four or five people may climb at once, and the steps are see-through, so you can look straight down through the frame. When the wind blows, the whole structure sways gently.
A tall metal scaffolding tower of the canopy walk rising through the trees
My legs were shaking on the first few flights, and two people in our group decided to wait at the bottom. But somewhere in the middle the fear turns into excitement. Trees that you were looking up at a minute ago are suddenly below your feet, and from the top platform you get a 360-degree view of nothing but green, rolling all the way to the mountains. Narrow walkways link the towers, and crossing one high above the treetops was the highlight of my day.
A narrow metal walkway linking the canopy towers above the treetops
A Waterfall and Lunch by the River
Instead of the river activity, our guide took us on a short muddy walk to a small waterfall. The pool below is full of little fish that come straight to nibble your feet as soon as you step in, a free jungle spa. The quiet streams on the way, with sunlight filtering through the leaves, felt a lot like the forests of Cuc Phuong back home.
A quiet rainforest stream surrounded by tall trees in Ulu Temburong
Lunch was a simple buffet of rice and local dishes at the lodge. Nothing fancy, but after 716 steps, hot food and tea tasted wonderful. We were back in Bandar Seri Begawan by early evening.
Tips for Visiting Ulu Temburong
- Book a tour in advance. Most tours include transport, meals, a guide and the boat ride.
- Wear proper shoes. The stairs and paths can be wet and slippery.
- Pack light: water, insect repellent, a hat, a rain jacket and a dry bag for your phone.
- Bring your passport on the day, as tour operators may ask for your details.
- Consider staying overnight at a lodge to hear the jungle at night and see the canopy at sunrise.
Final Thoughts
Ulu Temburong is not a hard adventure, but it feels like a real one: a fast boat up a jungle river, hundreds of steps through ancient forest and a shaky climb to a view few places in Asia can match. If you visit Brunei, do not leave without spending a day in its green heart.
