Some trips are about ticking off as many sights as possible. This one was the opposite. I gave myself three days in Tainan with only one rule: no scooters, no taxis, no rushing. I would walk everywhere, eat whenever I was hungry, and nap in the afternoon if the heat got to me. It turned out to be one of the most relaxing trips I have taken in Taiwan.
Tainan was the island’s capital for more than two centuries, so the old temples, forts and colonial buildings are packed into a fairly small area. That makes it perfect for a slow, on-foot itinerary.
Getting There and Where I Stayed
I took an intercity bus down from the north. Buses are cheaper than the High Speed Rail and, honestly, the seats are so comfortable that I slept almost the whole ride back. The bus drops you at the Tainan bus terminal right next to the main train station.
For that reason I booked a hotel about ten minutes’ walk from the terminal. A standard double room on a weekday was around NT$1,600 (≈ $53 USD) without breakfast. That is a bit pricey for one person, but very reasonable if you are travelling as a couple. The room had clearly been renovated, the bed was great and the bathroom even had a Japanese-style bidet toilet.
Two small warnings if you choose a hotel near the station: rooms facing the main road can be noisy at night, and the bathrooms in older city hotels tend to be small. Next time I will probably stay in Anping or another quieter neighbourhood instead.
My Walking Route Through the Old City
I kept the plan very simple. Day one was just wandering around the hotel and picking up snacks. Day two and day three were for the historic sights, all of which are within walking distance of each other.
Chihkan Tower (Fort Provintia)
If you only visit one place in Tainan, make it Chihkan Tower. The site was first built by the Dutch in the 1600s, and the red-roofed pavilions you see today sit on top of the old brick foundations. The tall palm trees and the row of stone tablets carried on turtle statues make it very photogenic, especially on a clear morning before the crowds arrive.
Hayashi Department Store and the Museum of Taiwan Literature
From Chihkan Tower I strolled south towards Hayashi Department Store, a beautifully restored building from the Japanese era with an old-fashioned lift and a rooftop shrine. Just around the corner is the National Museum of Taiwan Literature, housed in a grand colonial building with a dome. Even if you are not into literature, the architecture alone is worth a quick stop, and the air-conditioning is a lifesaver at midday.
The colonial-era building of the National Museum of Taiwan Literature
Tainan Confucius Temple
On my last morning I walked to the Confucius Temple, the oldest Confucian temple in Taiwan. The courtyards are calm and shaded, the curved roofs are stunning, and you can easily spend an hour just sitting on a bench and watching the light change on the red walls. Afterwards I continued to the Koxinga Shrine (Yanping Prince Temple) and the small Wu Garden, both of which are on the same walking route.
Red walls and curved roofs at Tainan Confucius Temple
Interestingly, Chihkan Tower, the Confucius Temple and the Koxinga Shrine are the three places almost every tour group visits, so if you want quieter photos, go right at opening time.
What I Ate in Tainan
Tainan is famous as Taiwan’s food capital, and walking all day means you can eat without feeling guilty.
A Japanese Set Meal That Was Worth Every Dollar
My favourite meal of the trip was a Japanese-style set at a small restaurant not far from Chihkan Tower. I ordered the nanban fried chicken set (NT$220 ≈ $7 USD) with a cheese croquette and a shrimp cake on the side. Rice, soup and barley tea are all refillable, so I left absolutely stuffed.
Nanban fried chicken set meal with rice, soup and side dishes
Street Snacks and a Surprise Sushi Box
On day two I planned to buy the famous crystal dumplings from an old shop near the temples, only to find a notice saying they were closed for a few days. Lesson learned: many family-run shops in Tainan close on random weekdays, so check their social media pages before you go.
Right outside the alley I stumbled on a little sushi takeaway and grabbed some inari, salmon nigiri and thick rolls. Not life-changing, but filling, and I really loved the sweet fried tofu skin on the inari. I also tried another shop’s crystal dumplings and a big egg-yolk pork bun (around NT$35 ≈ $1.20 USD), plus the local steamed meatballs, which are softer than the deep-fried kind I am used to.
Takeaway box of inari and maki sushi
Milk Udon for a Lazy Dinner
After walking for three hours straight under the sun, I went back to the hotel at 1 pm and slept until 5. Too tired to go far, I had dinner at a casual restaurant nearby and ordered a milk-broth udon. The soup was rich and creamy without being heavy, and the set came with a grainy homemade pudding that I would happily eat again.
A bowl of creamy milk udon with vegetables
An Old-House Café to Escape the Heat
On the last day, after checking out and leaving my bag at the front desk, I hid from the sun in a café inside a renovated old house near the Koxinga Shrine. Tainan is full of these converted townhouses with high ceilings and concrete walls. I ordered a black tea latte and a Basque cheesecake with orange liqueur, and the caramelised top was so good I almost ordered a second slice.
Interior of a renovated old-house café in Tainan
Two slices of Basque cheesecake with cream
Tips for a Slow Trip to Tainan
- Walk, but plan around the heat. From April onwards it gets hot by 10 am. Do your sightseeing early, rest at midday, and go out again in the evening.
- Stay central. The area between the train station, Chihkan Tower and the Confucius Temple covers most of the highlights.
- Check opening days. Small food shops often close for a few days without much warning.
- Give it four days if you can. Three days felt rushed for a “do nothing” trip. With one more day you could add Anping Old Fort and the Anping Tree House.
Final Thoughts
Tainan is not a city that impresses you with skyscrapers or theme parks. Its charm is in the details: a quiet temple courtyard, a cheap bowl of food that tastes like someone’s grandmother made it, an old house turned into a café. If you are tired of rushing from one attraction to the next, give yourself a few slow days here. I am already planning to come back next year.
