Taichung is the city most visitors to Taiwan skip. Everyone rushes between Taipei and the south, and the middle of the island gets a quick stop at best. I almost did the same, but a friend kept telling me that Taichung has the best weather in Taiwan and a very relaxed, creative side. So at the end of winter I gave it two full days, and I am really glad I did.
Here is what I did: a painted village, a sunset over the wetlands, a giant night market and a slow walk through the city’s green heart.
Day One Afternoon: Rainbow Village and Gaomei Wetlands
The two places I wanted to see most are on opposite sides of the city, and Gaomei Wetlands is on the coast, quite far from the centre. There is a tourist bus line (309) from the city to the wetlands, but to save time I joined a small-group afternoon tour that picked us up around lunchtime and dropped us back in the city after sunset. The guide explained everything in both Mandarin and English, which helped a lot.
Rainbow Village
Our first stop was Rainbow Village in Nantun District. It looks like a children’s book come to life: every wall, door and even the ground is covered in bright birds, cats, tigers and smiling faces painted in a naive, joyful style.
A small house in Rainbow Village covered in colourful painted figures, with swirls painted on the ground
The story behind it is touching. The paintings were made by Huang Yung-fu, a retired veteran who bought a house in this old military village in 1979. When the rest of the community was about to be demolished, he started painting the walls to fill his free time. His work became so famous that people campaigned to save it, and in 2010 the city agreed to keep the painted houses, a few old trees and the small park next to them.
The man everyone called “Rainbow Grandpa” passed away in January 2024 at the age of 101, so visitors can no longer bump into him walking around in the afternoon as they once did. Knowing that made the place feel a little more special. Entry is free, it is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm, and you can paint your own wish card to leave behind.
A green wall in Rainbow Village painted with bright cats and birds
Sunset at Gaomei Wetlands
The highlight of the trip was Gaomei Wetlands in Qingshui District, a huge area of mudflats on the south side of the Dajia River mouth. It is a protected wildlife area of around 700 hectares, and it has become one of the most famous sunset spots in Taiwan.
The sun setting over Gaomei Wetlands with a long row of wind turbines on the horizon
You walk out over the mud on a long wooden boardwalk, with a row of giant wind turbines standing along the coast. Look down on both sides and the mud is alive: hundreds of fiddler crabs waving their oversized claws (only the males have the big one) and little mudskippers hopping between the puddles. I could have watched them for an hour.
A fiddler crab and a mudskipper on the wet mud at Gaomei Wetlands
A few rules to know. You are not allowed to step down onto the mudflats from the side of the boardwalk, only at the end of it. If you drop something, you have to ask the staff for help. Most importantly, the boardwalk opens and closes depending on the tide, so check the times on the official Gaomei website before you go.
We stayed about two hours, until the sun had gone and the sky turned pink and grey. The light on the wet sand was unreal, and the turbines turned into black silhouettes. Bring a jacket, because the sea wind gets cold once the sun goes down.
Sunlight reflecting on the tidal flats of Gaomei Wetlands with wind turbines in the distance
Day One Evening: Fengjia Night Market
The tour bus can drop you at Fengjia Night Market, one of the biggest night markets in Taiwan. It spreads through the streets around the front gate of Feng Chia University, mainly along Wenhua Road and the lanes off Fengjia Road. Most stalls open from around 4 pm until late at night.
I came with a long list of snacks to try. My favourites:
A paper bag of golden fried sweet potato balls from Fengjia Night Market
- Sweet potato balls from a stall that has been frying them for about 30 years. Crispy outside and chewy inside, about NT$60 (≈ $1.90 USD) for a bag of 20. Expect a queue.
- Pig blood cake on a stick, rolled in peanut powder with plenty of fresh coriander. It sounds scary, but it tastes like a savoury sticky rice cake.
- A funny self-service drink station designed like a petrol station, where you “fill up” your cup with honey tea from a pump for about NT$50 (≈ $1.60 USD).
- Thai-style volcano pork ribs, with spice levels from none to crazy.
Go on a weekday if you can. On weekends and holidays the main lanes are packed shoulder to shoulder.
Day Two: A Slow Walk Along the Calligraphy Greenway
On my second day I stayed in the West District and did everything on foot. The weather was perfect: sunny, dry and around 20 degrees.
I started at the big lawn near the CMP Block, full of families relaxing on the grass, then followed the Calligraphy Greenway, a long strip of park with shady trees, wide paths and benches running through the middle of the city. It is lovely early in the morning when it is still quiet.
A wide tree-lined path along the Calligraphy Greenway in Taichung
Just off the greenway are two creative blocks worth a wander. Shenji New Village is a group of old dormitory houses turned into small design shops, cafes and dessert stands, with a busy market at weekends. Nearby, the Fan Te Xi creative block has old brick houses wrapped in climbing plants, with independent shops and cafes. One tip: many shops here are closed on Mondays, so do not save this walk for the start of the week like I almost did.
Old brick houses covered in climbing plants at the Fan Te Xi creative block
Tips for Visiting Taichung
- Check the Gaomei tide times on the official website before you plan your day.
- Consider a tour for the coast. Rainbow Village and Gaomei are far apart, and a half-day tour combines them easily.
- Avoid Mondays for Rainbow Village and the creative blocks.
- Go to Fengjia hungry, on a weekday.
Final Thoughts
Taichung does not have one big headline attraction, and maybe that is why it felt so pleasant. Painted walls made by a man who refused to let his home disappear, a sunset over endless mudflats, cheap snacks under neon lights and a sunny walk under the trees: it was the gentle, unhurried side of Taiwan I did not know I needed. Next time I will give it three days.
