Most people come to Penang for the food and the old shophouses of George Town, and honestly, so did I. But after three days of eating my way through the city, I wanted something different: a bit of fresh air, a view, and maybe a temple or two. The answer was Air Itam, a neighbourhood about half an hour inland where the island’s two most famous sights sit almost side by side: Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si Temple. I did both in one easy day at the start of August.
Penang Hill: Up the Funicular
Penang Hill, also called Bukit Bendera or “Flag Hill”, rises to about 833 metres. In colonial times it was a lookout point where soldiers signalled with flags to the town below, and later British officials built cool-weather bungalows up here to escape the heat. A funicular railway has carried people to the top since the 1920s, and the modern trains still run on the same steep route.
Tickets and the Ride
I took a Grab to the Lower Station in the morning, before the midday heat. There are two lanes: the expensive Fast Lane and the Normal Lane. The queue was short, so I bought a normal return ticket for RM30 (≈ $7 USD). Keep the barcode ticket safe, because you need to scan it again to come down.
The modern Penang Hill funicular train climbing its steep track
Many people call it a cable car, but it is actually a funicular, a train pulled up a very steep track. It reminded me of Hong Kong’s Peak Tram. Be ready for a crowded carriage: they fill it up properly, and most passengers stand. The ride itself is short, but the angle is impressive, and the jungle presses right up against the windows.
At the Top
I expected a quiet summit with just a viewpoint. In reality the top of Penang Hill is a small village, with houses, food stalls, a food court, cafés and lots of people, including locals who hike up for exercise. The air is noticeably cooler than in town, a bit like Da Lat compared with Saigon, but the sun is still fierce, so bring a hat.
The view is the real reward. On a clear day you can see the whole of George Town spread along the coast, the long Penang bridges reaching across the strait, and the green mainland behind. I arrived just as some clouds were breaking up, and the light kept changing over the sea.
View from Penang Hill over George Town, the sea and the mainland
Right by the viewpoint is the colourful Sri Aruloli Thirumurugan Hindu temple, its tower covered with painted figures. Under a blue sky with palm trees behind it, the colours were almost unreal. There is also a small mosque nearby, the old Bel Retiro bungalow from colonial days, and a colonial-style restaurant with a tea terrace. If you have more time, The Habitat nature park has rainforest trails and a canopy walk.
The colourful Sri Aruloli Thirumurugan Hindu temple on top of Penang Hill
Back at the Lower Station, the little souvenir shop has the cutest fridge magnets in Penang.
Kek Lok Si: Malaysia’s Biggest Buddhist Temple
From the Lower Station, Kek Lok Si is only about five minutes away by car. My Grab cost around RM6, and I was very glad not to walk in the midday heat. As soon as you get out of the car you can see the giant bronze statue of Kuan Yin on the hillside and the tall white pagoda below it.
Kek Lok Si, the “Temple of Supreme Bliss”, was founded in the 1890s and is the largest Buddhist temple complex in Malaysia. It is built in terraces up the hill, so you need a plan to get around.
The Inclined Lift
You can climb up on foot, but I took the inclined lift, a small glass cabin that slides up a steep rail. A return ticket cost RM16 (≈ $3.80 USD). The lift stops near the Avalokiteshvara Hall, and from there a waiting buggy takes you up to the main prayer hall. I recommend walking at least one way through the gardens, because the paths are lined with flowers, small shrines and rows of Buddha statues.
The inclined lift track climbing the hillside at Kek Lok Si
The colours here are completely different from the temples I know at home: pink and yellow walls, green and blue glazed tiles, red pillars and tropical plants everywhere.
Colourful terraces, halls and a small pagoda at Kek Lok Si Temple
The Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas
The temple’s most famous landmark is the seven-storey Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas, about 30 metres tall. People say it mixes three styles: a Chinese base, a Thai middle section and a Burmese-style crown on top. I only saw it from below and from the gardens, so it is on my list for next time.
The white Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas at Kek Lok Si against green hills
The Kuan Yin Statue
A second short lift takes you to the very top, where the bronze Kuan Yin statue, the Goddess of Mercy, stands about 30 metres tall under a huge open pavilion with carved stone columns. Standing at her feet is quite emotional, even if you are not religious.
The giant bronze Kuan Yin statue under its pavilion at Kek Lok Si
In front of the statue you can buy incense or colourful wishing ribbons (each ribbon has a different wish written on it) for a small donation. I tied one for good luck and another for “more money”, just in case. The square up here also has the best view of the whole day, even better than Penang Hill: rooftops of Air Itam, the high-rises of George Town and the sea in the distance.
View over the golden temple roofs and Air Itam from the top of Kek Lok Si
After all that sun I hid in a modern, air-conditioned café right by the temple entrance and had an iced coffee and a plate of pasta before heading back to town.
Tips for Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si
- Do both in one day. Go to Penang Hill first thing in the morning, then Kek Lok Si around midday, and you will be back in George Town by late afternoon.
- Check the weather. The funicular can stop in bad weather, and August afternoons often bring heavy showers.
- Use Grab. Buses go to Air Itam, but short Grab rides between the two sights are cheap and save a lot of sweat.
- Dress respectfully at the temples and bring water, a hat and sunscreen.
- Check current fares and opening hours on the official Penang Hill website.
Final Thoughts
I almost skipped this day because I thought Penang was all about food. I am glad I didn’t. Penang Hill gave me cool air and a postcard view, and Kek Lok Si completely surprised me with its size and colour. If you have one free day in Penang, swap a few hawker stalls for a trip to Air Itam. You can always eat more in the evening.
