Every time I told someone I was going back to Busan, they asked the same thing: “Have you ridden the little capsule trains yet?” I hadn’t. On my first trip I spent all my time in the markets and the old hillside neighbourhoods, so this time I saved one full day for the coast east of Haeundae, where the old Donghae Nambu railway line has been turned into Haeundae Blueline Park. A friend from Saigon came along, and it ended up being our favourite day of the whole trip.
A Foggy Morning on Haeundae Beach
We stayed near the beach and planned to walk to the station after breakfast. Early summer in Busan is lovely, warm but not yet sticky, with a breeze off the sea. What nobody had warned me about is the sea fog. When we stepped outside, the tops of the famous towers along the beach had completely disappeared into a white cloud, and from the sand you could barely see the water.
A white tent on Haeundae Beach on a foggy early summer morning
It felt strange and quiet, almost like a film set. We walked along the beach towards the eastern end, where Mipo Station sits at the foot of Dalmaji Hill, and arrived well before our booked time.
The Sky Capsule: Thirty Minutes of Pure Happiness
Blueline Park has two rides on the same coastal route. The Sky Capsule is a set of tiny, brightly painted cabins that run on an elevated rail between Mipo and Cheongsapo, about 2 km apart. Each capsule takes up to four people, so you get it all to yourselves. Underneath, the bigger Beach Train runs the full 4.8 km from Mipo to Songjeong and stops at every little station along the way.
Here is the part I want every reader to remember: the fog can stop the capsules. When we went up to the platform, the staff told us that the capsules were paused until the fog cleared, and that it might take a couple of hours. Luckily, as the sun climbed towards midday, the fog lifted quickly and we boarded not long after our original slot. Tickets are valid for the whole day if the service is suspended, so don’t panic if it happens to you.
A yellow Sky Capsule gliding along the elevated rail above the rocky coast
The ride itself is slow, about 4 km/h, and takes roughly 30 minutes one way. We opened the little windows, and the breeze was perfect. On one side there were pine trees almost touching the cabin, on the other the sea turned from grey to a deep, clear blue. Red, yellow, blue and green capsules kept coming towards us on the opposite track, and I must have taken a hundred photos of them.
Colourful Sky Capsules on the track between tall pine trees
From Mipo, the track that heads towards Cheongsapo runs on the sea side, so you get the open views. If you start from Cheongsapo instead, the other line of capsules passes between you and the water. That is worth knowing when you choose your departure station.
Halfway along we passed the Haewol Observatory, a curved skywalk that sticks out over the waves. From above it looks like a white question mark drawn on the sea.
The curved Haewol Observatory skywalk over the sea seen from above
Below us, the blue Beach Train rolled past now and then with its big side windows facing the ocean. I loved seeing both rides at the same time, one stacked above the other.
The Beach Train running below the Sky Capsule rail through a pine forest
Cheongsapo: Lighthouses, Fishing Boats and Grilled Clams
As we got close to the end, the view opened up over Cheongsapo, a small fishing village with a harbour wall and two lighthouses, one red and one white. Right outside the station there is a railway crossing that a lot of people photograph because it looks like a scene from a famous anime, and the Beach Train passes right through it.
Cheongsapo harbour and breakwater seen from a Sky Capsule window
We walked down to the harbour, past fishing boats tied up with nets and buoys, and out along the breakwater to the red lighthouse. The sun was strong by then, so bring a hat. If you have time, the Daritdol Skywalk is one stop further along by Beach Train. It is free, has a glass floor over the rocks, and you have to wear shoe covers.
The red lighthouse at Cheongsapo framed by pine branches
Cheongsapo is famous for grilled clams (jogae-gui), and the row of restaurants by the water all serve the same style of meal. We picked a small, unfancy place close to the station. A mixed clam platter starts at around 45,000 won (≈ $33 USD) for the smaller size. A staff member grills everything for you on a charcoal burner, scallops under a golden, cheesy topping, clams that pop open in their own juice, and you finish with rice or instant ramyeon cooked in the leftover broth. With seaweed soup and side dishes, it was one of the best meals I had in Korea. As a Vietnamese person who grew up eating oc by the roadside, I was very happy.
Clams and topped scallops cooking on a charcoal grill in Cheongsapo
After lunch we took the Beach Train back towards Mipo. It is slower and busier than the capsule, and only the first rows have proper seats, but the side-facing windows are great and the driver even points out the sights.
Tips for Visiting Haeundae Blueline Park
- Book online in advance. Capsule tickets are sold in 30-minute time slots on the official Blueline Park website, and weekends sell out. A Sky Capsule plus Beach Train package for two cost about 65,000 won (≈ $47 USD).
- Mipo is busier than Cheongsapo. If you hate queues, start at Cheongsapo, which usually has shorter waits.
- Leave a gap between rides. If you book both, give yourself about an hour between the capsule and the train.
- Watch for sea fog in early summer. Morning fog can pause the capsules. Book a late-morning or afternoon slot to be safe.
- Bags are fine. There are lockers at the stations, so you can come straight from checking out of your hotel.
Final Thoughts
I expected the capsule ride to be a cute but overpriced photo stop. It turned out to be the most relaxing half hour of my trip: no crowds inside, a cool sea breeze, pine trees, and a slowly changing coastline. Add a walk around Cheongsapo and a smoky clam lunch, and you have a perfect early summer day in Busan. Just check the weather, and don’t be scared off if the fog rolls in.
